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Herbs To Start From Seed Early

growing herbs

The middle of winter might feel like a quiet time in the garden, but it’s the perfect time to get a head start on your herb garden planning and seed prep. When you’re starting vegetable seeds, the process is fairly straight forward. They have different germination times, but they all respond well to very similar seed starting practices.

Herb seeds however, they’re more particular about how they start life. They need things like cold stratification, some need to be soaked, and some need to be scarified. Some require light to germinate. Some require heat to germinate. And all the germination times are different.

It doesn’t really matter where you want to grow your herbs. Whether you’re growing outdoor perennial plants, indoor herbs, or planning for the early spring, sowing the right herb seeds now gives your herb plants plenty of time to reach transplant size and thrive in your specific climate.

Figuring out which types of herbs to start this month, including those that need cold stratification, and how to do it, can be a little overwhelming. Here’s a guide to help you get started growing and help you have a successful growing year.

Getting An Early Start On Seed Starting

The new year is the best time to plan out your growing year. Starting seeds indoors or using a cold frame is a great way to get a jump start on your planting season, especially if you live in cooler temperatures or areas with a harsh winter. By January, your herb garden planning should be in full swing, to give your seeds plenty of time to germinate and grow before your last frost date.

For perennial herbs like lavender and herbs requiring cold stratification, starting in January is important. Cold stratifying herbs can take a few months, so knowing what seeds need this and getting them going needs to happen early.

Scarifying Seeds

Scarifying seeds means intentionally damaging the hard outer coating of certain seeds to encourage germination. Some seeds have tough exteriors that prevent water and air from reaching the embryo inside, which can delay or inhibit sprouting. By lightly breaking or scratching this coating, you help the seed absorb moisture and begin the germination process. Scarification can be done in several ways, including rubbing seeds with sandpaper, nicking the seed coat with a knife, or soaking them in hot water for a short time. The best way depends on the seed type, but the goal is always the same…giving your seeds a head start for better germination.

Medicinal Herb Seeds That Require Scarification

Milk Thistle (Silybum marianum)
Echinacea (Echinacea spp.)
Roselle Hibiscus (Hibiscus sabdariffa)
Fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum)
Holy Basil (Ocimum sanctum)
Marshmallow (Althaea officinalis)
Astragalus (Astragalus membranaceus)

These herb varieties have a naturally tough seed coat that benefits from scarification, especially if you’re starting seeds indoors or in a cooler weather environment.

Cold Stratification

Some plants require a dormant period before they can germinate. Cold stratification is the process of exposing seeds to a cooler environment to mimic natural winter conditions and create that dormant period. It’s like giving your seeds a signal that spring is on its way.

Certain herb varieties, such as lavender, lemon balm, and roselle hibiscus, won’t germinate well without this step. If they do, they typically have poor germination rates and the plants aren’t nearly as strong.

How to Cold Stratify Herb Seeds

Cold stratification can be done in a few simple steps in a couple of different ways:

Gather Supplies:
- Your herb seeds
- A small container or plastic bags
- Damp paper towels or a seed-starting mix
Prepare Seeds:
- Place your seeds in a damp paper towel or mix and seal them in the container or bag.
- My favorite way to prepare herb seeds for cold stratification is to moisten soil as if you are preparing to start seeds. Plant the seeds as required, cover them with saran wrap or a lid, and place them in the refrigerator. Soil blocks are handy in this application.
Refrigerate:
- Store the seeds in your refrigerator (not freezer) for 4-6 weeks. This cool, moist environment mimics late fall or early winter conditions.
- If you are planting a larger crop, you can start them as mentioned and place them in a dark tote. Place the tote outside during cold temperatures.
Sow Seeds:
- After stratification, you would typically plant your seeds in seed trays filled with garden soil or a mix and place them in a sunny windowsill or under grow lights.
- If you prefer my method, you’ll simply remove your tray from your cold storage and place it on a heat mat.

Herbs That Require Cold Stratification

These herb seeds need a period of cooler weather to germinate successfully:

Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia): A fragrant, perennial herb for relaxation.
Roselle Hibiscus (Hibiscus sabdariffa): A tropical plant often used for hormonal balance.
Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis): A calming and gut supportive herb ideal for tea blends.
Echinacea (Echinacea purpurea): Known for its antiviral properties.
Angelica (Angelica archangelica): A biennial plant with medicinal and culinary uses.
Mullein (Mullein thapsus): A biennial plant that is a powerful respiratory supporting herb.
Anise Hyssop (Agastache foeniculum): Good for respiratory and digestive support.
Skullcap (Scutellaria lateriflora): Supportive to the nervous system.
Passionflower (Passiflora incarnata): An herb that supports healthy sleep cycles.
Catnip (Nepeta cataria): A calming a digestive supportive herb.
Valerian (Valeriana officinalis): An herb that supports healthy sleep cycles.

Heat Or Light For Germination

I’ve mentioned some seeds need light and some need heat to germinate. If you’re used to growing vegetables from seed, this may seem foreign to you, but as I said, herbs can be pretty particular about how they start life.

Unfortunately, good herb growing information isn’t as prolific in the internet world as veggie growing is. If you can’t find specific information on the herbs you’re trying to grow, a general rule of thumb is, if they’re super tiny seeds, surface sow them and use light to germinate them. If they’re bigger seeds, use seed starting mats.

Herb Seeds to Start Indoors in January

While some herb varieties need cold stratification, others thrive with a simple indoor start. Regardless of what you’re starting, the most important thing to consider is when your last frost date is. Here in zone 5a, I still have seeds to start in January so they’ll be ready to plant out in early May. Don’t know what your hardiness zone is? You chan check that HERE. These are some of the herbs I’m starting now for best results:

Lavender: A great time to start the cold stratifying process is in January for this herb. It doesn’t have a super long stratification period, about 28 days, but it is a very long germinator. It can take several weeks up to 2 1/2 months to germinate successfully under the right conditions.
Roselle Hibiscus: Slow to germinate but worth the wait, this beautiful tropical herb can take 21 days to germinate.
Rosemary: Rosemary can take a month to germinate and must stay in ideal conditions to do so. This herb can be quite picky about its germination conditions and can often give poor results for beginner growers. When you start rosemary seed, be sure that the seed starting mix is evenly wet, and don’t let it dry out. Once it dries out, it will be difficult to get it to germinate.
Thyme These teeny tiny seeds prefer to only be surface sown and need light in order to germinate well. Putting a tray of thyme seeds on a seed starting mat wouldn’t do much.

Caring for Your Seeds and Young Plants

Your herb seeds have germinated! Now what? Herbs are still pretty picky and need the right conditions to be able to thrive. Once they’re seedling size, you can transplant them and they’ll typically be just fine once they adjust to their new home. But until then, you need to make sure you’re consistent and attentive to your herb babies. Here are some things you need to be mindful of when raising your herbs:

Use Grow Lights: Provide consistent light if your particular site doesn’t get enough natural light. I’m not a fan of sticking young fragile herbs in a sunny window. The problem is, the sun isn’t direct enough, even in the best window conditions. Herbs will likely get leggy and unhealthy. Even if they do make it to transplant size using this method, they won’t be in the best health.
Avoid Overwatering: Overwatering can lead to fungal diseases and weak plants. Some herbs prefer to have wet feet, but even for those water loving plants, too much water is a bad thing. If you do notice signs of fungal disease or gnats flying about, turn on a fan to dry out the conditions some. Underwatering is a favorite watering method to help control moisture levels.
Use a Cold Frame or Mini Hoop House: For cooler temperatures, these protect young plants from frost. It’s easy to get excited in those first few warm days of summer. The sun is out, we have a few 60º days, and we think, yep, it’s time to plant. Then the temps drop and plants are in danger of being killed. Your herb seedlings will be fragile for quite a while. If you need or want to transplant early, be sure to use a cover of some sort for them. Cold frames and mini hoop houses are easy and cheap to build and offer a toasty microclimate for seedlings to survive in.

Knowing as much as possible about the seeds you are working with is the best way to have fresh herbs and a flourishing herb garden by late summer. Whether you’re growing annual herbs or perennial herbs this is the perfect time to give your seeds a head start.

Need more tips for starting seeds or caring for your herb garden? Check out The Herbal Collective to dive deeper. In there I have detailed steps on how to design and grow a thriving garden to build your herbal apothecary.

Happy growing!

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